Kashi Vishwanath darshan: timings, aartis, Sugam Darshan and what to carry

Every lane in the old city seems to lead, sooner or later, to Vishwanath. It is the reason Kashi is called the city of Shiva: one of the twelve Jyotirlingas, the places where Shiva is said to have appeared as an endless column of light, and for many Hindus the most sacred temple in India. People come here to see and be seen by the god, which is what darshan means. Some come once in a lifetime; some neighbours come every morning before work.

A visit is simple once you know how the temple works, and bewildering if you don't. This guide explains the history in brief, how the day is divided by the aartis, the ticket options, the gates and the rules, and the hours when you can stand before the linga without being swept past it.

A temple rebuilt many times

A temple to Vishwanath has stood in Kashi for well over a thousand years, and it has been destroyed and rebuilt several times. The temple that stood before the present one was demolished in 1669 on the orders of the emperor Aurangzeb, and the Gyanvapi mosque was built on part of its site; the mosque still stands beside the temple today. For more than a century the linga was worshipped in a modest shrine nearby.

The present temple was built in 1780 by Ahilyabai Holkar, the Maratha queen of Indore, who also endowed temples and ghats across India. In the 1830s Maharaja Ranjit Singh of Punjab gave the gold that plates its spire and dome, which is why visitors still call it the Golden Temple of Varanasi. In December 2021, the Kashi Vishwanath Dham corridor opened, clearing a broad, paved passage from the temple down to the Ganga at Lalita Ghat, with courtyards, galleries and a temple complex around it.

Timings and the five aartis

The temple opens in the small hours and closes around 11 PM. Its day is divided by five aartis, and general darshan pauses while each is performed. Each aarti, except the last, needs its own ticket, booked separately from darshan.

The Mangala Aarti is the one to see if you can. In the dark before dawn, the sanctum is lit with lamps, bells ring and the priests wake and bathe the god. It has a small number of places and sells out, often weeks ahead in season; book as soon as your dates are fixed, and be at the gate well before 3 AM, as entry closes before the aarti begins.

Sugam Darshan and the ways in

There are three ways to have darshan. The general queue is free and open to all; outside festivals it can take from half an hour to several hours. Sugam Darshan is a paid entry through a shorter line, at about ₹250 to ₹300 per person depending on the option and the season; it is booked on the temple trust's official website, and recent guides say it comes with use of a locker. It is not offered during aartis and is often suspended on the busiest days. Finally, the aarti tickets above let you attend a ceremony inside the sanctum courtyard.

1. 1Book online on shrikashivishwanath.org: choose Sugam Darshan or an aarti, the date and the slot, and enter the ID you will carry.
2. 2Arrive early, at least 30 to 45 minutes before your slot, to leave time for the lockers and the security checks.
3. 3Leave your things at a locker counter near your gate: phone, bag, belt, wallet if it is leather.
4. 4Carry only your ID, the booking confirmation (printed, since you cannot take your phone in) and a little cash for offerings.
5. 5Go through security; there are several checks on the approach.
6. 6Take darshan: in the queue you will have a few seconds before the linga, longer at quiet hours.

The temple can be approached from several gates in the old city and from the river through the corridor. Gate 4 is the usual reference point for paid darshan and has the temple's help desk nearby; the Dhundhiraj and Saraswati gates lead in from the market side, and the corridor brings you up from Lalita Ghat. If you are staying on the ghats, coming up from the river is the most beautiful approach.

What you can and can't take in

Security is tight. Mobile phones, cameras, smartwatches, power banks, bags and leather items are not allowed past the entry gates, and you will be checked several times. Lockers are available at the gates. Photography is not allowed inside the temple. Flowers, milk and other offerings can be bought from the shops along the approach, but they are not required; your presence is enough.

What to wear

Dress modestly: shoulders and knees covered for everyone, and nothing tight or revealing. Indian clothes are welcome but not required. You will take your shoes off before entry, so wear something you can slip off and on quickly, and leave good shoes at your hotel if you can. Touching the linga, called sparsh darshan, is allowed only at certain times and is often suspended on busy days; ask at the help desk on the day.

When to go, and when to avoid

In 2024 the temple cancelled all daily passes on the Mondays of Shravan to manage the crowds, and it has done similar things on other major festivals. If your dates fall on one of them, plan for the general queue and a long wait, or move your darshan to another day.

Around the temple

Allow time for the shrines around Vishwanath, which most visitors miss. Annapurna, the goddess who feeds Kashi, has her temple a few steps away; her golden image is shown to the public only for a few days around Diwali. Vishalakshi, one of the Shakti Peethas, is a short walk towards the river. And Kaal Bhairav, the fierce guardian of the city, is traditionally visited to ask his permission to stay in Kashi. Many families visit all four on the same morning.

For the rest of your stay, read our guides to the Ganga Aarti and how many days to spend in Varanasi. On our Kashi in Four Days journey we book darshan for you, arrange the lockers and walk you to the gate.